Pokémon Card Condition Guide: NM, LP, MP, HP and Damaged Explained
· 3 min read
Condition is the biggest reason two copies of the same card sell for different prices. Here's how the standard raw-condition scale works, what to look for at each level and a step-by-step way to inspect a card.
When you look up a card's market price, the number almost always assumes Near Mint condition. Most cards that have been played with, carried in a pocket or stored loose in a box aren't Near Mint, and that's the most common reason people overestimate what their cards are worth. Learning to grade condition yourself takes a few minutes and makes every price check more accurate.
This guide covers the condition scale used for raw (ungraded) cards by major marketplaces such as TCGplayer. Professional grading on a 1–10 scale is a different system — see is it worth grading?.
The five condition levels
| Condition | What it looks like |
|---|---|
| Near Mint (NM) | Looks essentially fresh from the pack. At most a tiny imperfection or two that's hard to spot; no creases, bends or scratches you'd notice. |
| Lightly Played (LP) | Minor wear you can see on inspection: light edge or corner whitening, a few light scratches. No major defects. |
| Moderately Played (MP) | Clearly used: noticeable whitening on edges and corners, scuffing, surface scratches, possibly a minor crease or light bend. |
| Heavily Played (HP) | Major wear: heavy whitening, multiple creases, significant scratches or scuffing, but the card is intact. |
| Damaged (DMG) | Tears, deep creases, water damage, writing, holes, peeling foil or anything beyond heavy play wear. |
Our card condition guide shows these levels side by side with the estimated effect each one has on value, which we use when you add a card to your collection with a condition other than Near Mint.
How to inspect a card, step by step
- Use bright, direct light. A desk lamp or your phone flashlight works. Many surface scratches are invisible under soft room lighting.
- Check the back first. Edge and corner whitening shows up most clearly against the dark blue back. Look at all four edges and corners.
- Check the front edges and corners. On yellow-bordered cards, whitening is subtler; tilt the card to catch it.
- Tilt the front under the light. Rotate slowly to reveal scratches, scuffs, print lines and indentations, especially on holo and full-art cards.
- Look for bends and creases. Lay the card flat and look along it at eye level. Any crease you can see or feel drops the grade substantially.
- Check for anything else. Ink, stains, stickers, dents and warping all count.
Common edge cases
Factory defects
Off-center printing, print lines on foil and minor factory whitening happen straight out of the pack. For raw cards, buyers still notice them; for graded cards, centering in particular can cap the grade. Describe them honestly when you sell.
Holo scratches
Holofoil and reverse holo surfaces scratch easily. A card that looks Near Mint at a glance can drop to Lightly Played under direct light. If you're selling a valuable holo, photograph it at an angle to show the surface honestly.
Curling
Foil cards sometimes curl because of humidity. Light curl that flattens in storage usually isn't treated as damage, but a permanent bend is. See how to store cards to prevent it.
How condition affects value
Each step down the scale lowers what buyers will pay, and the gap is usually bigger for valuable and vintage cards, where collectors care most about condition. For low-value cards, condition matters less because the card is near bulk either way. That's why it's worth taking the time to grade your best cards carefully and price them accordingly, while sorting bulk quickly.
When you scan a card, the price shown is for Near Mint. Save it to your collection with its actual condition and the collection's total value uses an adjusted estimate. To see what similar cards are worth in different conditions on the open market, check recent sold listings.
Selling and buying: be conservative
- When selling, grade one step lower if you're unsure. Buyers who get a better card than described leave good feedback; buyers who get a worse one return it.
- When buying, ask for photos of the back and of the surface at an angle.
- Marketplaces have their own condition definitions — read them before listing. Our selling guide covers the main channels.
Frequently asked questions
What does NM mean on a Pokémon card?
Near Mint: the card looks essentially fresh from the pack, with at most minimal, hard-to-spot imperfections. Most online market prices for raw cards assume NM.
What's the difference between LP and MP?
Lightly Played cards show minor wear such as light whitening or a few light scratches. Moderately Played cards show clear wear: noticeable whitening, scuffing, and possibly a minor crease.
Is raw condition the same as a PSA grade?
No. Raw conditions (NM, LP, MP, HP, DMG) are a marketplace convention for ungraded cards. PSA, BGS and CGC use their own 1–10 scales after a professional inspection.
Snap a photo to identify it and see the market price for every variant.